CIUTADELLA

Why Ciutadella?

 It’s the arches that draw me back to this most Catalan of cities and you can’t really understand the island until you’ve absorbed Ciutadella into your system. Its labyrinth of cobbled alleys mixed with the huge palaces of the nobility and tiny one room shops just gets inside you and refuses to let you go. Like other cities the outskirts have become industrialised but the city itself retains a clearly medieval character. There aren’t many cities that have a windmill in them.

 What do miss most when you’re away?

The friendliness of the locals and two small words. That lovely Menorcan “Bon Dia” that everyone in the cafes and markets uses really makes me glad to be back. Menorcans love to talk and gesticulate, they’re the nearest people to Italians I’ve seen anywhere in this sense.

What’s the first thing you do when you return?

Go for a walk along Ses Voltes, the pedestrian alley at the heart of the city. The Moorish arches always fascinate me. It’s where café life rules and well-dressed matrons spend their time sitting on canvas chairs in the shade of the arches or in the square at the end. There are some lovely little bakers here too selling Menorcan specialities such as crespells, delicicous tarts filled with jam or sweet potaoes.  The shops here sell the local Curado, a cured cheese with a flavour making it comparable to old Parmesan.

Where’s the best place to stay?

To be honest we always stay in a villa in the centre of the island, as we need to criss cross it for our work. Nowhere in Menorca is more than half an hour away and there are areas where the parking in the city is free if you read the guidebooks! If you do want to stay in the city then The Hesperia Patricia (971 385 511) is a three star hotel with pool that’s popular with business people and only five minutes walk along the Cami de Sant Nicolau from the old city.  If you’re on a budget the Hotel Alfonso III (971 380150) at 53 Cami de Mao is a 1 star hotel that’s right on the edge of the old city and next to Ciuatedlla’s windmill. 

Where would you send a first time visitor?

The Fish Market that sits firmly in the middle of the Placa de la Libertat. The signs above the stalls show the names of the boats that made the catches but you need to be quick if you want to buy as they’ve normally sold out by lunchtime. This small square used to be a side court of an Augustinian monastery and there are fruit and vegetable stalls under the arches. On the other side facing the fish market is an arcade of meat and poultry stalls with the round arches and ceramic tiles associated with the islands Arab occupation. There are also several small bars and cafes where you can sit with a beer and watch the local life unfold before you.

 What would you tell them to avoid?

Nothing really. The city’s too fascinating to miss anything.

Pubic Transport or taxi?

You can walk everywhere in the city as it’s so compact. If you do need to go out to the further reaches of the harbour the busses are very cheap

What should I take home?

Menorca supplies many of the fashion houses of the world with their shoes. The leather in the best shoes is wonderfully soft and supple. Also have a look at the costume jewelry, which is coated in silver and gold and finished with imitation stones. Traditional Menorcan serving dishes are a must but do wrap them up carefully for the flight.

And if I’ve time for only one shop?

Probably Ca Sa Pollaca in Ses Voltes.  This shop has been selling hand-made leather shoes and sandals since 1899. They have a great selection of abarcas (the traditional Menorcan rubber-soled sandals made from old car tyres) for babies and children. Not as grandiose as the sumptuous designer shops further along but it’s about as Menorcan as you can get.

Handbag or moneybelt?

Handbag. Menorca is one of the safest places you can go to and Ciutadella is no exception.  

 Back to Menorca Page   Back to Home Page

Where would you meet friends for a drink?

Ciutadella doesn’t have the flashy bars with loud music so we meet friends under the shaded awnings of the cafes in the Placa Nova. You pay more here than in other areas but I like the hum of the place in the evenings. There are numerous tapas bars on the edge of the Placa des Born that have lots of fish dishes and afterwards you can stroll out into the Placa des Pins and watch the locals playing boule under the trees.

Where are your favorite places for lunch?

Go to be the harbour without a doubt. You’ll get some of the freshest fish you’ll ever tasted here especially at Restaurante Es Moll on the Moll Commercial (971 480 813). A lovely setting and its ‘Menu del Dia’ is particularly good value.  In the old city the Restaurant Ses Voltes ( 971 381 498) is busy bar/café in the ancient arches that specialises in varieties of  toast with olive oil.

And for dinner?

The intimate basement Restaurante El Horno (971 380767) is situated in the northeast corner of the Placa des Born. It’s only open in the evenings but well worth the wait as it brings a little bit of French style to the city.